When the Spanish explorer Francisco de Orellana the first ever European to venture into the Amazon, embarked on his intrepid journey into the unknown he left the mountainous terrains of the Sierra in pursuit of the Amazon valley. Surprisingly enough in the heart of the Sierra he found the first sightings of the valley that marked the starting point of his travels. This very spot is commemorated by a statue in memory to the great explorer in the heart of Guapulo a northern suburb of Quito that has unparalled views across the open valley that will forever be known as the gateway to the unchartered territories of the Amazon.
On a clear day the vistas of El Cayambe (volcano) combined with the flowing waters of the valley below renders Guapulo utterly unique in its geographical vista and an absolute must see for the Quito first timer. Starting from the Hotel Quito, stopping at the ‘mirador’ to take in the panoramic scenery you can take a short cut down the grassy steep steps which will take you into the heart of Guapulo, the stunning views are best enjoyed from one of the many bars’ terrazas which look out over the valley. Meandering down the narrow streets Guapulo’s bohemian relaxed charm is very much of a Latin nature with children playing in every corner and seemingly half of Quito’s dog population roaming the streets. The inhabitants are an eclectic mixture of local and foreign artisans, cool young musicians, bohemian foreigners enamoured with this chilled corner of Quito, the salubrious inhabitants of the Spanish Ambassadors small palace and those residing in the now expensive properties on the Camino de Orellana as well as your traditional large Ecuadorian families who have simply always lived in Guapulo.
As sun sets over the valley Guapulo slowly comes to life, especially from Wednesday-Saturday, where live music reverberates through the quiet streets and the eclectic small bars are frequented by equally random assortment of clientele. Yet, there are also the on-street meat sellers where you can pick up a cheap traditional dinner for $1 and the hoards of youngsters gathered around the square by the church drinking ensures that Guapulo has a pumping yet relaxed evening vibe. For those who feel nervous down town Quito and miss being able to go for an evening stroll Guapulo is undoubtably your destination. As you wind down the streets there is enough life not to feel nervous yet the intrinsically friendly nature of the inhabitants ensures that you are not clutching your bag for dear life every time you round a corner.
Whilst Guapulo comes to life at night, the breathtaking scenery must also be explored in the clear light of day as well as the Sanctuary of El Guapulo a beautiful church dating back to 1644. The Church has a little museum and is considerably quieter than those in the old town whilst proffering a similar style of traditional Spanish colonial architecture. For those who are looking for a relaxed night out in a vibrant atmosphere and unlimited access to many of the friendliest quitenos in town Guapulo is surely your destination. Equally so for those hankering after a small town feel and a quiet jugo or cocktail with unparalled views.
Unfortunately Guapulo has no budget hostel accommodation, a hostel that was opened there never really took off the ground mainly because of the lack of public transport. However, for those on the high end of the budget Hotel Quito stands at the top most point of Guapulo boasting a large swimming pool with stunning views. For the average traveller wanting to stay a little longer in Quito there is plenty of cheap accommodation to be found for rent in Guapulo, best bet is to ask around in local bars or check for signs.
