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Map of Estero de Platano

Map of Estero de Platano


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The coastal road slightly less traveled, takes you away from the crowds of Atacames or Montanita to visit small working fishing communities which even though slightly unfamiliar to tourists, will welcome visitors with open arms and show you around. The description below gives a recommended trip around the small peninsula between Muisne and Atacames stopping at the very special village of Estero de Platano.

The small fishing village of around 500 inhabitants, is surrounded by steep rocky cliffs where the forest breaks off to meet the sea and exposes an idyllic beach. A secret spot to spend a couple of days. The journey takes you through some stunning scenery, most of which you will be looking at from the back of a pick up.

The thing to do here is to talk to the localsand join in the everyday life. Your potential host, Luis or Fulton Moreno (see below) are great sources of information and can arrangevisits, included in your cost of accommodation, to local farms which will leave your arms loaded with fresh fruit and avocadoes. At low tide the rocky, but flat coast line is exposed and families scour the rock pools for small octopus and various shell fish. Theriver provides a fantastic route through the dense and relatively untouched forest as well as a great spot to wash the salt from your ears. Two lanchas (motorized boats) set off early to catch the larger fish but you may be able to arrange for a trip to explore the coastline by asking for Thomas Gonzalez.

Places to stay and eat

Type of accommodation:

Budget: Available

Mid range: Unavailable

High Range: Unavailable

Restaurants:

There is no formal hotel here, but this makes Estero de Platano all the more important to visit. Once you have taken in your stunning surroundings ask for Luis Moreno who has simple rooms adjacent to his house and above the busiest store in town. A roomwith shared bathroom and 3 meals will cost you all of $8. Rooms are also available at his uncles’ house, Fulton Moreno. On Friday-Sunday night, Caguita Bar, a thatched bar, overlooking the beach, opens, covered in fruit, to serve up any cocktail or fruit juice you can think of. Comedor Carmita, with its heart shaped sign, next to Caguita bar,serves plates piled high with patacones (smashed, fried verde) and fantastic fish.

How to get there

Traveling from Muisne, it is best to set off in the morning as the journey, though stunning and interesting, can be abit stop and start. At New Muisne which is on the mainland across from the island of Muisne you take a car/pickup to Bunche (50c). Ask anyoneon the ‘dock’ as there are always people waiting for a pickup. Passing numerous shrimp farms, which are responsible for decimating the mangroves that line this area of the coast, and after a short drive (15mins), you will arrive on the edge of a small river in Bunche. Here youmay get your feet wet as you take a small dug out canoe (10c) across this calm river to the waiting pick up or ranchero that will take you the next few miles (20mins, 50c) to San Francisco del Cabo. Get yourcamera ready as you dip out of the forest into San Francisco which is a little town set around a bay filled with fishing boats and a lovely beach. You can stay here for a bite to eat and a quick swim before heading off but there are rooms available, just ask about town. Rancheras depart every 1/2 hours for the next town of Quinche and on to Esterno de Platano (1 hour, 70c). Another option is to take a bus from Muisne to Atacames and disembark at Tonchigue (1hr, $1) to hop on a bus traveling back south via Punta Gallera to Esterno de Platano (every hour 1 ½ hrs, $1.50) or if you arein Atacames, there are buses directly from there that will take a little longer.

Events

Current Events in Esmeraldas

Tue, Oct 12th
Columbus Day
Mon, Nov 1st
All saints Day
Tue, Nov 2nd
All Soul's Day
Tue, Nov 16th
Fiestas Patronales de Sua
Fri, Dec 24th
Christmas Eve

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