I am about to tell you a tale of the Columbian border, that fateful place five and a half hours from Quito. Sitting three thousand meters about sea level is Tulcan the capital of the Carchi province. The many charms of Tulcan include Volcan Chiles, thermal baths and to my surprise a cemetery worthy of note and not for the reasons you may think. There is also the excitement of being on the dreaded border, which has received so much attention from the world press of late. Let me first set your mind at rest I did not for one moment feel threatened or apprehensive as I walked the streets of Tulcan. Perhaps the Guerilla groups and drug lords were having a day off, who knows, but despite and quite possibly because of its location Tulcan is a place to see.

A mere $5 from Quito or $13 from Guayaquil (12 hours) Tulcan is within easy reach for most travelers. Quite interestingly Tulcan serves as an alternative to Banos. There are thermal baths in the Tufino area. However, many of the best are located on the Columbian side of the border. It is possible and in fact fairly simple to organize a day pass in order to visit the baths on the Columbian side. As with any tourist attraction they get extremely crowded at weekends but considering it is necessary to queue for the baths in Banos from four in the morning on any day of the week and the distance from Quito is not that different, Tulcan could be an interesting alternative for travelers.

There are many hostels and hotels especially in the area surrounding the bus station and a taxi to anywhere in the town cost $1. Standing 4km from the main bus station is the Volcan Chiles an extinct volcano that straddles the border. Its summit which reaches 4760km above sea level takes 6 hours to climb and it is necessary to bring a guide as well as enough food and water for your group and the guide. However, for me one of the most interesting attractions Tulcan has to offer is the Garden Cemetery or as it is officially known the Municipal Cemetery created by Jose Franco in 1936. Jose Franco created a topiary garden in the cemetery out of Cypress trees. The man himself is buried under the Escultura en Verde del Campo Santo (Sculpture in Green of the Holy Field).

The cemetery lies two blocks from the Parque Ayora. The sculptures include impressive arches and walkways as well as angels, animals, Incan symbols and much more. Whilst this is definitely worth a look it is important to remember that it is a fully functioning burial ground and not simply a place to take pretty photos. I felt extremely uncomfortable walking past mourners whilst others in my group happily snapped on their kodaks. The garden is clearly there to be looked at however; I would hope that people pay the respect due to a place where every day people lay their loved ones to rest. In 1984 the Ecuadorian Government designated the gardens as a National Patrimony and to this day the five sons of Jose Franco continue the family tradition and the upkeep of the Cypress trees. Its influence throughout Tulcan is also clear with a many a trimmed bush in evidence. For me it is the ode that Jose Franco left that makes the cemetery and Tulcan such an important place to visit on your whistle-stop tour of the country.

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