The
sensation is comparable to pushing through a crowd in a busy circus tent. You
have your arms up covering your chest with your arms locked together making a giant
fist with both knuckles.
Crossing
the border on foot is a nerve jangling experience by any experienced traveller.
The reason perhaps is that you are at your most vulnerable. You are surrounded
by a group of people that include police, hagglers and robbers. All of whom can
give you butterflies by alone, but bunched together makes an hour's border crossing
a bit of a nightmare.
But for the
readers of Moving Ecuador, I have made the journey for you and come back over
so you guys can relax, knowing exactly what to expect and do.
- You get the bus to Tulcan, the
most northern town in Ecuador. The place is miserable and not much to do
there, but if you arrive at night time, it is certainly worth finding one
of the surrounding hostels or hotels near by the terminal for an early
rise to cross the border
- You need to take a taxi to the
actual border. The drivers will ask for $3.50, but usually this can be
haggled down to a square $3. A good sentence to say
is: 'Si fuera un ecuatoriano, cuantos pagaría?'. It means 'If I were an Ecuadorian, how
much would I pay?' It gets taxi drivers every time.
- The border offices are open
from 6AM to 10PM all day everyday. An official said to me that it's better
to go as early as possible to avoid the queues.
- Upon arrival the taxi driver
will normally drop you outside the Migration office. Remember when
crossing the border, you have to leave as well as enter a country.
- It's worth pointing out that
these people are not as helpful as you may expect to have back home. The
official I saw kept me waiting until he finished writing a message on his
phone. The trick is to be patient and not lose your cool in these places.
- Whenever you go to borders, you
tend to stick out more than most. Don't be alarmed when everyone turns their
heads at you.
- After you have your stamp, you
have to walk over the bridge (which is in no-mans land) to the Columbian
immigration office which is about 200 metres from the Columbian side.
- Before you get here, you will
pass at least 20 people asking to change you dollars into Pesos. Don't be
tempted unless you need the small amount to get a taxi (6000 pesos, only
$3). These people offer you an absurd exchange rate and will try and trick
you into how much they have given you. Due to the exchange rate (c1920
pesos = $1), it is easy for them to do so. Even if you do count it up
correctly, they charge whatever they like in fees. Just not worth it when
you can change money in the next town.
- You must get a tourist VISA for
Columbia. This is done in more or less he same way as the Ecuadorian side.
Hand in the passport and get your stamp. Check how many days it's valid
for, (usually 60 or 90 for Columbia) and you're nearly there.
- Similar to the hagglers who
want to change your money for silly amounts you have people asking you to 'take a taxi'. Now, make sure you go down to the bank of white taxis.
There are people, who are not official taxi drivers and will just lead you
to their normal cars. Stay well clear of these people. They charge the
same and you don't know who they are. They often hang around the entrance
of the Columbian immigration office.
- Grab a white taxi to the next
town of Impiales where you can find the bus terminal for no more than 6000
pesos.
The thing
to keep in mind is to have your head down and do what you need to do. Anyone
shouting 'My friend…' or 'Hey you…' is not trying to help whatever they say
afterwards. The whole experience is slightly nauseating but if you follow the
above instructions you should be OK. I found that wearing deep shaded
sunglasses was a great help, because it avoided eye contact with anyone. As soon
as someone catches your eye, you can expect some kind of request or ‘offer’
soon afterwards.
If you need
to ask anyone anything, ask them in the actual office because they will have
the answers.
