Some thirty kilometers west of Cuenca – and 1500 meters up in elevation – lays the ethereal paramo (high Andean grassland) of Parque Nacional Cajas. Low hanging clouds and fog, windblown grassy plains, countless shimmering lagoons, and dramatic mountain peaks combine to give the chilly park an otherworldly aura. Adding to the dreamlike nature of the park is the absence of almost any tree other than the thick groves of tiny tangled polylepis trees – which grow at the highest elevation of any tree in the world – tucked into sheltered gullies and hillsides. Day hikes of several difficulty levels are easily done from Cuenca, while multi-day treks across the 288 square kilometer park are also possible. The park entrance fee for foreigners is $10.

Where to sleep: Camping is allowed anywhere in the park for $4 per person. There is also a refuge at the ranger station with eight cots, though these tend to fill up fast. Wherever you sleep, bring warm clothes and a warm sleeping bag. The cots are just mattresses, and temperatures at the park (with an altitude ranging from 4000-4500 meters) get very cold, especially at night.

Where to eat: Bring your own food if you want to eat. The refuge is equipped with a kitchen.

How to get there: There are many single day and multi-day trips offered by tour agencies in Cuenca that include transportation. These tours usually cost between $35 and $45 per person per day, not including the park entrance fee. The best way to get to Cajas yourself is to take a cab to Transportes Occidental ($2 from the centro), located right next to the Terminal Sur bus station, from which busses charging $1.25 for the one hour ride to the park’s main ranger station depart at 6am, 7am, 10:20am, noon, 2pm, 4pm, and 5pm. To get back to Cuenca, simply walk out to the highway and flag down a passing bus.

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