Mompiche - Moving Ecuador - Responsible travel and volunteering in Ecuador

Mompiche

Esmeraldas

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Destination details

Mompiche Photo Even though word is quickly spreading about this lovely beach and surfing spot, Mompiche still remains a quiet fishing village set back from an extensive 3km long beach, lined with palm trees, with few tourists. The sand and sea may not be Carribean white and turquoise but the beach is pristine and scattered with small fishing canoes with a magically relaxed and safe atmosphere.

Being a beach there is little to do apart from relax and join the rest of the town in splashing in the waves, lounging in a hammock and eating seafood fresh from the sea. Surf boards, body boards and classes are available at very reasonable prices at the DMCA - Surf Hostel just to the right of the main ´road´ when looking at the beach.

A short walk from Mompiche and you will find La Playa Negra, a beach of black sand, which you are likely to have all to yourself. When facing the sea walk left to the end of the beach past the Casablanca cabañas and head left up a gravel road. After 10/15 mins passing grazing cows and horses, an unmarked path on the left will take you back to the sound of the sea.

A further 30 mins down the road will bring you to Portete, a stunning beach with all the coconuts you can eat. Ask in town if you can get a ride there. Back in Mompiche make sure you take a wander on the beach after dark where you will find local fishermen, their families and friends, sorting through the last catch of the day by oil lantern giving you a real taste of life on the coast.

Places to stay and eat

De Mompiche Con Amor (DMCA Surf Hostel): 086743667. This lovely hostel is set back from the beach, just to the right of the main road. Rooms are $5-8 depending on if you share the bathroom, prefer upstairs or opt for a balcony. There is a rooftop terrace with hammocks and a lovely sitting area to unwind in front of TV. Camping with bathroom and cooking area is available for $1.50.

Hostel Gabael (099696543) This long standing establishment has everything that you will need and is found by walking right down the beach for a couple of mins. It is one of the few buildings in Mompiche with more that one floor. Cabañas cost $10/15 depending on the season. You can camp for $3 and there is a restaurant and beach side bar with curious wooden saddle stools.

Casablanca: Rustic cabañas on palm lined beach front found walking left down the beach. $10 a night with on site restaurant. Bookings can be made in Quito by calling 02225248/89/90 or email This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it

Iruna: Another beautifully located group of cabanas, a 3km walk right down the back but lifts can be organized. The smaller cabanas, just back from the beach cost $10/$15 per person, depending on the season, and $15/$20 for a sea view. Meals are available in the restaurant on site. www.playa-ecuador.com 099472458

There are a couple of restaurants serving up typical coastal treats of cerviche and fish or prawn encocado (coconut stew).

How to get there

If traveling from the south you need to take a bus to Pedernales. Regular buses pass directly through Canoa from Bahia and take about 2 and a half hours. In Pedernales change to a bus to Chamanga and tell the bus driver that Mompiche is your destination so that you are thrown out at the correct spot to catch another bus to Tres Vias. Tres Vias is just beyond the turning to Mompiche but the best and safest spot to get your 20 min ride back to Mompiche. Travelling from the north is more straight forward, with direct buses from Atacames (2/3 hours)up in Esmeraldas going to Santa Domingo.