| Estero de Platano |
| Esmeraldas | ||||||||
The coastal road slightly less traveled, takes you away from the crowds of Atacames or Montanita to visit small working fishing communities which even though slightly unfamiliar to tourists, will welcome visitors with open arms and show you around. The description below gives a recommended trip around the small peninsula between Muisne and Atacames stopping at the very special village of Estero de Platano. The small fishing village of around 500 inhabitants, is surrounded by steep rocky cliffs where the forest breaks off to meet the sea and exposes an idyllic beach. A secret spot to spend a couple of days. The journey takes you through some stunning scenery, most of which you will be looking at from the back of a pick up. The thing to do here is to talk to the localsand join in the everyday life. Your potential host, Luis or FultonMoreno (see below) are great sources of information and can arrangevisits, included in your cost of accommodation, to local farms whichwill leave your arms loaded with fresh fruit and avocadoes. At low tide the rocky, but flat coast line is exposed and familiesscour the rock pools for small octopus and various shell fish. Theriver provides a fantastic route through the dense and relativelyuntouched forest as well as a great spot to wash the salt from yourears. Two lanchas (motorized boats) set off early to catch the largerfish but you may be able to arrange for a trip to explore the coastline by asking for Thomas Gonzalez.
Places to stay and eatThere is no formal hotel here, but thismakes Estero de Platano all the more important to visit. Once you havetaken in your stunning surroundings ask for Luis Moreno who has simplerooms adjacent to his house and above the busiest store in town. A roomwith shared bathroom and 3 meals will cost you all of $8. Rooms are also available at his uncles’ house, Fulton Moreno. OnFriday-Sunday night, Caguita Bar, a thatched bar, overlooking thebeach, opens, covered in fruit, to serve up any cocktail or fruit juiceyou can think of. Comedor Carmita, with its heart shaped sign, next to Caguita bar,serves plates piled high with patacones (smashed, fried verde) andfantastic fish.
How to get thereTraveling from Muisne, it is best to set off inthe morning as the journey, though stunning and interesting, can be abit stop and start. At New Muisne which is on the mainland across fromthe island of Muisne you take a car/pickup to Bunche (50c). Ask anyoneon the ‘dock’ as there are always people waiting for a pickup. Passingnumerous shrimp farms, which are responsible for decimating themangroves that line this area of the coast, and after a short drive (15mins), you will arrive on the edge of a small river in Bunche. Here youmay get your feet wet as you take a small dug out canoe (10c) acrossthis calm river to the waiting pick up or ranchero that will take youthe next few miles (20mins, 50c) to San Francisco del Cabo. Get yourcamera ready as you dip out of the forest into San Francisco which is alittle town set around a bay filled with fishing boats and a lovelybeach. You can stay here for a bite to eat and a quick swim beforeheading off but there are rooms available, just ask about town. Rancheras depart every 1/2 hours for the next town of Quinche and on to Esterno de Platano (1 hour, 70c). Another option is to take a bus from Muisne to Atacames and disembarkat Tonchigue (1hr, $1) to hop on a bus traveling back south via PuntaGallera to Esterno de Platano (every hour 1 ½ hrs, $1.50) or if you arein Atacames, there are buses directly from there that will take alittle longer.
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Costa Rica is a tiny little community at spitting distance from the Peruvian border. The little town is built on an island, distancing it from the busy world around it. The 60 families that occupy the island have been living there for generations. Traditionally they have been making a living as fishermen, leaving the island to fish in the mangroves and near the coast.
