| Zumbahua |
| Cotopaxi | ||||||||
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A spectacular two-hour bus ride west from Latacunga, rolling green hills and craggy peaks surround the tiny village of Zumbahua. This backdrop creates great hiking possibilities, but Zumbahua’s true charm lies in its Saturday market, an event that brings indigenous Andeans from across the Cotopaxi region to buy and sell a plethora of goods including produce, meat, clothing, cutlery, and livestock. The market starts very early – four a.m. early – and is pretty much shut down by two in the afternoon. Most tourists don’t arrive until almost noon so if you get there by nine or so you should be one of the few gringos around. Brightly colored bananas, mangoes and apples, traditional Andean weavings, the squealing and squawking of pigs, chickens, sheep and llamas, and the alluring smell of grills and fryers working overtime all combine to overwhelm the senses. And there’s no need to eat breakfast before visiting the market, as delicious platos, empanadas, breads, meats, soups, and fruits await at almost every turn.
Places to stay and eatAccommodation: If you want pricey, fancy accommodations you came to the wrong place, but there are a few low budget places to choose from – Hostal Richard, Hotel Quilotoa, and Condor Matzi all offer rooms for well under ten dollars. Condor Matzi has gained a reputation as the best and most popular place in town, is located right on the plaza where the market takes place, and features a charming wooden balcony that is perfect for taking in the scene. If you’re only in town for the day, they will also watch your bags for a dollar while you wander around the market. If coming in on a Friday, be warned that all lodgings fill up quickly. Restaurants: There are a number of cheap eateries surrounding the main plaza but if you’re in town for the market your best bet is to eat there, gorging yourself of fresh fruit, fried pork, grilled chicken, and ten cent cheese empanadas.
How to get thereBuses to Zumbahua leave from Latacunga every hour starting at five in morning and ending in the early evening. The two-hour ride costs two dollars and is simply beautiful, winding up and up through the rural Andes while the ride back is equally breathtaking, on a clear day providing stunning views of Volcan Cotopaxi as it towers over Latcunga. If coming from Lago Quilotoa, you can hire a pick up truck ($5) to drive you the forty-five minutes to town.
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