A spectacular two-hour bus ride west from Latacunga, rolling green hills and craggy peaks surround the tiny village of Zumbahua. This backdrop creates great hiking possibilities, but Zumbahua’s true charm lies in its Saturday market, an event that brings indigenous Andeans from across the Cotopaxi region to buy and sell a plethora of goods including produce, meat, clothing, cutlery, and livestock.

The market starts very early – four a.m. early – and is pretty much shut down by two in the afternoon. Most tourists don’t arrive until almost noon so if you get there by nine or so you should be one of the few gringos around. Brightly colored bananas, mangoes and apples, traditional Andean weavings, the squealing and squawking of pigs, chickens, sheep and llamas, and the alluring smell of grills and fryers working overtime all combine to overwhelm the senses. And there’s no need to eat breakfast before visiting the market, as delicious platos, empanadas, breads, meats, soups, and fruits await at almost every turn.