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The Tsáchila

From the 16th to the 20th Century, missionaries and explorers reported finding bare-chested, black toothed natives in the hot, rainy, snake infested country behind the Western Cordillera. The men were striped like jaguars, wore silver wrist bands, and jangled with feathers, bird bones, and Achiote seeds. They painted and sculpted their hair in such a way that they appeared to be wearing shiny, red, leaf-shaped helmets tilted forward over bald heads.

The Tsáchila, as they called themselves were referred to by the settlers as the Colorados for their colorful hair and clothing. The red hair dye, derived from extract of Achiote, accentuated their identification with the Achiote seed. The home was a seed pod, providing a foundation from which its members, like seeds, could go out and plant themselves in the world.

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Yanapuma Foundation

With the help of donations and volunteers, the Yanapuma Foundation, a fledging Quito-based organization, is taking an innovative, comprehensive approach to community development. The Foundation was brought into being by Andy Kirby, a native of Scotland, whose experience volunteering in other community development organizations in Ecuador convinced him that a new approach was needed.

The Yanapuma Foundation bases its work on a need to help indigenous communities thrive andpreserve their cultures amidst the pressures of globalization. They are currently accepting volunteers and donations to help with projects in the communities of Bua de los Tsachilla, Wachimak, and La Chimba; as well as others involving street kids in Quito. Among the unique aspects of Yanapuma is its Spanish school, which it uses to train its volunteers as well as cover its administrative costs. "The idea is that one hundred percent of donations go to fund community projects," says Kirby.

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Parque Ichimbía: The Balcony of Quito

Located at the limit of the Old Town, at the top of a really long flight of steps leading up from the church of San Blas, the Parque Ichimbía is a verdant island of tranquility floating over the noise and pollution of Quito. 

According to Judith Perez, the Director of Communication for Parque Ichimbía, it has 360 degrees of views, including views of Pichincha, Cotopaxi, El Valle de los Chillos, and the Old Town. “It is the balcony of Quito,” she says.  Indeed, the balcony of the Greek restaurant, El Mosaico, perched on the edge of Parque Ichimbía, is the best place in the world to drink a cocktail and watch the sunset.

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Fiestas de Quito - Toasting to the history and character of the capital.

The countdown is on for the start of the Fiestas de Quito, Ecuador´s disorganized version of Carnival.

The Spanish founding of Quito in 1534 was first celebrated on December 6th 1934 with exhibitions and parades held in honor of the fourth centenary of the city.  With special permission of the Archbishop of Quito, the private museums of various convents and monasteries were opened to the public for the first time and newspapers across the country released special editions reporting on the fervent celebrations.  Following the centenary, however, the historic date passed quietly for over twenty years until, in 1958, Quito-based journalist Don Caesar Larrea invited citizens of Quito to join in celebrating the founding of the city.

Some events advertised in the newspaper at the time have become honored tradition in the annual celebrations.  The Marathon de Ultimas Noticias, a 10km race, is staged each year and the full speed go-cart competition down the notoriously steep Olmedo Street continues to ignite friendly rivalry amongst kids in the city.  Nowadays the 6th of December is commemorated with a week of avid partying known as The Fiestas de Quito.

The festival kicks off in the Plaza San Francisco with an opening announcement from the city mayor.  Dance parties are organized in most neighborhoods and an abundant supply of hot canelazo, a cinnamon spiced wine, gives rise to music and dancing in the street.

Free exhibitions and concerts are staged in plazas and parks across the city.  Colorful chivas, traditional buses made of wood, cruise along with live bands and passengers enjoying the views from atop- and carefully dodging hanging telephone cables along the way!

The Jesus of Great Power, Ecuador´s prominent bullfighting event, attracts bullfighters from across the world and the best-dressed crowds of Quito.    Local clubs and restaurants serve up traditional Spanish and Ecuadorean cuisine, accompanied by flamenco dancers, singing mariachis and rounds of quarente, a popular Ecuadorean card game.    

The eve of the 6th of December is a breathless celebration.  Crowds gather to watch an iconic parade down Avenida Shyris, showcasing traditional Ecuadorean dress and big band music.  The beauty Queen of Quito is named, the clubs are pumping and an early night is simply not on the agenda.     

With many a sore head to be nursed, the 6th of December itself is generally quite tame, marking the close of the Fiestas de Quito; a unique commemoration that both exhibits and honors the unique and vibrant spirit of Ecuador´s capital.