The concert took place in a large park and sports field with bleachers and the number of people seated was slightly disconcerting. There was a small minority at the front, who were clearly in the spirit of the concert but the vast majority seemed for want of a better word, bored. There were more people crowded around the food stands than the stage and other than the odd ten year old whose Latin blood had overridden the general malaise breaking out some dance moves, dancing seemed to be an alien concept to this crowd.

Our group was notably the only “gringos” present and eventually curiosity overtook the polite conventions of a group of Columbian boys. Ranging from fifteen to twenty-two they quizzed us on where we were from and our reasons for being present. In return they answered my questions on the lack of atmosphere, despite what seemed all the right ingredients for a banging peace concert. According to these boys it was the music that was causing the lack of enthusiasm, although I have a sneaky suspicion it was their penchant for heavy metal that was impeding their fun. It was at this point that the rain started and there was a mass exodus.

The field emptied in the space of fifteen minutes and regardless of a small group of people who had cleverly brought their umbrella’s despite the morning sunshine the concert was essentially over. It would seem that while the organizers “hearts” were in the right place the concert itself failed to meet the expectations of the many people who had crossed the border and travelled to Tulcan from other parts of Ecuador. Local press reported a success and stated that about 20,000 people were in attendance. This is perhaps possible if you count the heavy police presence and the number of food and drink vendors. However, I would hazard at a figure closer to the 5,000 mark. Although the concert lacked the “Latin fever” you would expect from an event of this sort.

It is extremely encouraging to see the peoples of Ecuador and Colombia overcoming differences caused by a tiny but significant minority. The papers everyday report worsening relations between the Ecuadorian and Columbian governments but April 12th proved that this is a purely political issue. The problems between Ecuador and Columbia are removed from the populace. As the Saturday in the park proved they are quite willing to sing, eat and drink together without discrimination and violence and it was only the strong police presence that alluded to the fact that problems could be expected. If the governments of these countries could take a leaf out of their voters books and work together instead of to their own agenda’s perhaps the diplomatic road ahead wouldn’t seem so rocky.

The white city of Ecuador and the capital of the Imbabura province lies some three hours north of Quito. A sleepy colonial city Ibarra is lined with whitewashed buildings and pretty plazas. However, for anyone choosing to go to this much visited northern city the true attraction lies in the spectacular lakes and mountain retreats surrounding the town. The surrounding lagoons and volcanoes are equally popular amongst Ecuadorians looking for a retreat from urban living as amongst tourists. ‘Lago Yahuarcocha’ some 2 miles outside the city is one of the most spectacular sights in the region. The lake originally bearing the name ‘the lake of blood’ in local language was formed from a glacier that proudly guards many local legends and is a focus point for many historical battles that have taken place there.

The lake is surrounded by small fish stands where for a mere $1.50 you can eat any local catch barbequed in front of you which combined with a smattering of lime and cold beer hits the spot every time, especially in the warm temperatures of Imbabura. To explore the perimeters of the lake you can take out pedaloes for $2 and there is plenty of opportunity for paragliding. For those of those with a more relaxed mentality you can walk around to either of the two hotels on the lake edge and enjoy a drink with spectacular views. Despite the stunning scenery of Yahuarcocha and its supposed popularity when we were there there were no other tourists to be seen yet the atmosphere was plentiful (Easter weekend) and very much of a friendly local feel. Yahuarcocha has a popular racing track where there are plenty of big rallies and during racing time the village dramatically increases in population.

If you don’t fancy staying in Ibarra the city there is plenty of reasonable accommodation on the lake front whilst Ibarra offers a wider range of budget and more up market hotels. Getting to Ibarra is only a two and a half hour bus journey from Quito and forty-five minutes beyond the famous indigenous city of Otavalo. Buses run every fifteen minutes from Quito ($3) and it also marks the route that takes you up to the bordering town with Colombia, Tulcan. This marks Ibarra as a perfect destination for those traveling north on their way to Colombia, those who want excellent trekking conditions in stunning scenery or those in need of a break from the bustle of Quito and don’t feel like embarking on a million hour bus journey.

Perhaps Ibarra lacks the Latin luster of some of Ecuador’s other cities, however the surrounding scenery and stunning vistas offer unlimited opportunities away from many of the more touristic routes and very reasonably priced. To get a true sense of village life you can stay in the moutain village of La Esperanza a village 3 miles north of Ibarra where for $5 a night you can rent a very simple double room with a family who will organize trekking on foot and horseback into the surrounding mountains. In June Ibarra holds her cultural week where the very important ‘eleccion de la reina’ (beauty queen) takes place as well as fiestas organized in all the small plazas and musical and dance performances. (18-25 June).

I am about to tell you a tale of the Columbian border, that fateful place five and a half hours from Quito. Sitting three thousand meters about sea level is Tulcan the capital of the Carchi province. The many charms of Tulcan include Volcan Chiles, thermal baths and to my surprise a cemetery worthy of note and not for the reasons you may think. There is also the excitement of being on the dreaded border, which has received so much attention from the world press of late. Let me first set your mind at rest I did not for one moment feel threatened or apprehensive as I walked the streets of Tulcan. Perhaps the Guerilla groups and drug lords were having a day off, who knows, but despite and quite possibly because of its location Tulcan is a place to see.

A mere $5 from Quito or $13 from Guayaquil (12 hours) Tulcan is within easy reach for most travelers. Quite interestingly Tulcan serves as an alternative to Banos. There are thermal baths in the Tufino area. However, many of the best are located on the Columbian side of the border. It is possible and in fact fairly simple to organize a day pass in order to visit the baths on the Columbian side. As with any tourist attraction they get extremely crowded at weekends but considering it is necessary to queue for the baths in Banos from four in the morning on any day of the week and the distance from Quito is not that different, Tulcan could be an interesting alternative for travelers.

There are many hostels and hotels especially in the area surrounding the bus station and a taxi to anywhere in the town cost $1. Standing 4km from the main bus station is the Volcan Chiles an extinct volcano that straddles the border. Its summit which reaches 4760km above sea level takes 6 hours to climb and it is necessary to bring a guide as well as enough food and water for your group and the guide. However, for me one of the most interesting attractions Tulcan has to offer is the Garden Cemetery or as it is officially known the Municipal Cemetery created by Jose Franco in 1936. Jose Franco created a topiary garden in the cemetery out of Cypress trees. The man himself is buried under the Escultura en Verde del Campo Santo (Sculpture in Green of the Holy Field).

The cemetery lies two blocks from the Parque Ayora. The sculptures include impressive arches and walkways as well as angels, animals, Incan symbols and much more. Whilst this is definitely worth a look it is important to remember that it is a fully functioning burial ground and not simply a place to take pretty photos. I felt extremely uncomfortable walking past mourners whilst others in my group happily snapped on their kodaks. The garden is clearly there to be looked at however; I would hope that people pay the respect due to a place where every day people lay their loved ones to rest. In 1984 the Ecuadorian Government designated the gardens as a National Patrimony and to this day the five sons of Jose Franco continue the family tradition and the upkeep of the Cypress trees. Its influence throughout Tulcan is also clear with a many a trimmed bush in evidence. For me it is the ode that Jose Franco left that makes the cemetery and Tulcan such an important place to visit on your whistle-stop tour of the country.

Arriving in Puerto Lopez, the area seems more like a town under construction than a popular whale spotting destination. The bus station is fairly crowded and is situated opposite the only ATM in the town. This road is the main street and is part of the Route del Sol, named Machalilla. It is about a 10 minute walk to the beach side road, Melecon Julio Izurieta, which runs parallel to the high street, however, if you are laden with bags, or just plain lazy like me, there are a host of eager tuc tuc drivers clamouring for your business. Puerto Lopez oozes with laid back, chilled out charm. From the dusty tracks and town roads and sleepy souvenir stands to the bevvy of hardworking fisherman sitting upon their fishing boats, bobbing amongst the seabirds swooping for scraps, Puerto Lopez feels safe and homely and is a far cry from the beach party, theme park feel of Montanita.

There is a good selection of hostels to choose from in Puerto lopez the most expensive being 'Hotel Pacifico' that charges around $10 per person depending on how many of you there are in a room. It has a nice swimming pool and hammock area and a friendly bar/restaurant. For a slightly cheaper option, Hostel Maxima offers rooms for $6-$8 and is clean and comfortable and offers a hearty breakfast for $3. Most hostels have a good breakfast and you'll notice that Puerto Lopez seems to be sponsored by toasted sandwiches; Along the beach, small grass roofed cafes display bold name signs along side a picture of a giant toasted sandwich. The people of Puerto Lopez also seem to have mastered the art of creating the perfect mix of fruit with creamy yoghurt and crunchy granola.

Peak season in Puerto Lopez is June/July when Whale watching expeditions and tourist activities ensure many of the locals earn enough during this period to take it pretty easy the rest of the year. Having visited in April, I can definitely recommend visiting Puerto Lopez outside of peak season if you have not set your heart on whale watching. The weather is fantastic and the main beach is the epicentre of local activity, whether it be playing volley ball, paddling with the children or just relaxing in a hammock, it's really refreshing to be surrounded by beautiful scenery and for it to be totally utilized by the residents as opposed to seas of bikini clad tourists. There are two main communities in Puerto Lopez; The Ecuadorian families and the intricate hierarchy amongst the stray dog community. It’s fascinating to watch the dogs stroll around, just as much a part of the neighborhood as any human, moving from shade to sun, crossing the street to greet one another and generally going about their business. Even though most seem harmless, I would suggest avoiding the smaller tracks in the heart of the town at night where this hairy community seems to gather! Eating an evening meal in Puerto Lopez will cost you around $6 and you can guarantee the sea food is fresh.

For a family run, relaxing seafood platter, Restaurant Carmita dishes up a delicious mixture of grilled, battered, fried, everyway fresh catch. If fish is not for you there is a good selection of international eateries and if you are lucky enough, as we were, befriend two local jewellery makers and you could be treated to hard bartering at the local market, fresh shrimp picking from the cool box in a back garden, and a traditional home cooked Ecuadorian rice dish in the comfort of a hammock, relaxing in the open air living room of your new found Puerto Lopez friends. The people of Puerto Lopez are exceptionally relaxed. Service is snail paced but worth waiting for and locals will go out of their way to help you (for a fee obviously but the company and hospitality far out ways the cost!) One of the most popular destinations from Puerto Lopez is Isla de la Plata, known to travelers and guide books as the poor man’s galapagos. For $25 - $30 you can book a boat tour from most agencies and hostels in town.

This pays for the 3 1/2 hour journey to the island, snorkeling equipment (diving equipment for those who wish to spend a little more) and if you choose to you can take a 3 hour guided track around the island, for which you have to pay an extra $15 national park entrance fee. There is some spectacular wildlife including a good selection of sea birds, sea lions and occasionally dolphins. For people like me on a slightly smaller budget there is a much more gritty, hand on, authentic experience involving a slightly smaller but still beautiful Island called Isla Salango Head down to the far end of the beach where if you are up early enough you can witness the fisherman bringing in their catch, which can even include hammerhead sharks, eagerly overlooked by the hundreds of Pelicans, frigate birds and vultures. Puerto Lopez is a substantial fishing village on the south coast and much of the catch is transported to many of the surrounding areas. It’s here where you can befriend a fisherman, or an enthusiastic middle man, and negotiate a price for transportation to isla Salango. It seems a fairly common place practice as initially we parted with $5 for lunch provisions and over all, for three people we payed $40. This included all our snorkeling gear, fishing bate and lines, a fantastic fresh cerviche prepared by the 'guide' with our catch, wonderful summer salsa music and incomparable company with Polo the Captain, Jonathan who appeared to come along purely for the company and ..... our guide/chef/fisherman.

Hiring a fishing boat appears to be a legitimate and safe way to see the fantastic wildlife, wonderful snorkeling and beautiful empty beaches without the agency fee or organized 'follow the leader' tour feeling. In keeping with my never ending praise for the people of Puerto Lopez, we had heard of a beach a few kilometers away, Playita, and hired Christobel, a tuc tuc driver to take us there. With four of us squeezed into the back of the tricycle, Christabelle drove us for about 10 minutes uphill where he abruptly pulled over at the side of the road. There is a small sign for the beach on the side of the road next to thick woodland. Don't be deterred, there is a slightly beaten track that takes you over the brow of the hill and down onto the deserted beach. For around $4 and the right tuc tuc driver, you can arrange a time to be collected and returned to puerto Lopez. The light track takes around 15 minutes and mosquito repellent is a must.

The final meters of the walk are through boggy mud - prime mosquito breeding ground. Although very beautiful, it is more the tranquility and desert island feel that makes this beach special; not one other person braved the track and we were alone for the entire day! The surrounding cliff tops and caves make for a good walk up and down the beach and the sea is fairly calm, take care to avoid the more rocky areas either end of the beach. Puerto Lopez is a thoroughly welcoming town where you can enjoy lazy afternoons on the beach, beautiful wildlife and great food accompanied by fantastic local company. The town exudes laid back personality and Ecuadorian hospitality accompanied by natural beauty and a host of excursion options for when you can drag yourself away from the completely relaxing beach side cafes. Buses run regularly from Puerto Lopez to Guayaquil and Quito and in both directions along the route del Sol to neighbouring coastal towns.